ORDER SECURELY ONLINE! OR give us a call on the toll free order line 877-639-1543 9-6 CST, M-F (405-601-5288 in Oklahoma or outside U.S.) 405-601-5301 tech support NEW FAX 405-445-0796. Remember our bottom line price includes shipping! We stand behind the products we sell with a 30 day warranty less shipping and handling (90 day warranty on systems). Prices subject to change with out notice. Questions? Try our HELP file first. Need hardware help? Read Bob's Mac Tech Tips. Why use reconditioned equipment? See the Mac Comparison Chart! All large orders have to be signed for. Operator Headgap Systems, Inc.,7308 S. Klein OKC, OK 73139 Contact Us.
We can provide you options and software for your installation if you do have trouble. Give us a call!
OSX Install Notes for G4 Systems
Make sure you absolutely and solidly have a backup of all data before starting.
If you call with an OSX related question, please do us the courtesy of dialing on your dime. We are always happy to help, but please use the tech support 1-405-601-5301 number.
How much ram and hard drive do I need?:
We recommend at least 512MB unless you don't mind waiting for the beach ball to spin. If you can afford to fill up your RAM. Apple says a full install requires 128MB of ram and 3GB of drive space (10.2 requirements, other versions more). That means of course you really should have 6GB available and 256MB or ram or more. Realize now that you will actually be slowing down when you install X. You need at least 256MB of ram, 384 or 512 is better. Apple says 128. More is always better. A full install requires 3 GB of drive space (again 10.2). With the enormously fat Applications etc, you would be quickly out of space. For a G4 running OSX10.4 we recommend at least 20GB.
If youare on an older G4 with a 350 or 400 mhz we recommend you replace your processor with a 500mhz or faster. You can do this yourself and we have processors in stock. See the Accelerator section of our online store.
First off read all of the information below especially on how I install OSX. If you screw up and have to restart the machine, you can get the machine into a state at which it no longer works at all. Pay careful attention and you won't have troubles. If you do run the reset routine I describe below. You may have to hit the CUDA switch so before beginning make sure you know how to recover your machine or don't start.
When we say a machine is OSX ready what we mean is Apple says this machine is supported and you have the necessary ram and drive space to meet the install requirements. You need to read the instructions included with any options installed on your system such as processor, graphics card, DVDR or CDRW Drives etc. before starting as each require special drivers. If you have a special processor check with the processor manufacturer's web site before installing.
Where is the PMU or CUDA Switch?
The CUDA or motherboard reset switch is a last resort. If your computer doesn't come up at all before replacing the power supply usually pressing the switch will restore life to your dead computer. If you don't hear a chime after that then it may be Power Supply time. If your computer fails to come up after a processor swap, overclock, or ram install then it may be time to try the CUDA switch. The CUDA switch looks like a little gray (sometimes red) doorbell button. It is indeed a momentary switch like a doorbell button. This is always done with the POWER OFF!
Rom updates should be kept current on all Macs that use them. Check Apple System Profiler/Product Information/ROM Revision.
- If you have a G4 Sawtooth, Gigabit Ethernet, or Digital Audio Tower yours should read 4.2.8, newer G4 models may have a different version. The Quicksilvers rom version is 4.25 or later and that is correct for them. There is no ROM updates for QuickSilvers or Mirror Drive Door units required.
The updates are available on the Apple Web Site or of course on the Kitchen Sink CD. Follow the directions.
OTHER FIRMWARE UPDATES FOR X
A list of required firmware updates is listed on Apple's web site. Do this before installing X. http://support.apple.com/kb/ht1395
Know how to recover your machine or don't start
Before you install or if your machine fails and you can't get it to come back up:
DEEP LEVEL RESET TIP: On G4 Machines especially when aborting an OSX install really scrambles the computer. You can super reset the computer by Zapping the PRAM 3 times in a row. Then move your fingers from the P R keys to the O F keys (in other words Command - Option - O - F). COOF will bring up a machine language screen. <return> means press the return key you don't type the characters out. At the prompt type the following:
On G4 Towers you want to include resetting the NVRAM.reset-nvram <return>
If that fails hold the CUDA switch down for 15 seconds and run through zapping the pram sequence listed above. Need help resetting your CUDA? Read Bob's Mac Tech Tips.
Leopard OS10.5 WARNINGS - remember no classic mode for older software!
Check to make sure before you install that all the major applications you run are Leopard compatible. I can't tell you how many people called after Leopard was release singing the blues. MacRumors.com has thoughfully put up a list of incompatible programs as well as listed some programs that just have certain issues. Before upgrading to Leopard make sure your machine qualifies. You need an 867 mhz processor or faster, 512MB of ram, 13GB (really more) of free space, a DVD capable optical, and a 32MB Quartz enabled video card. Also remember there is no classic mode in Leopard so if you run older software in classic mode you will need to find alternatives before you upgrade. I have had to simplify the machines I install on so often I now start up with only one stick of ram and all PCI cards removed, and of course only the keyboard, mouse and monitor plugged in. Lastly and more importantly if you are installing on your old system you should archive and install rather than let the software be updated. A clean install is recommended.
Can I make my G4 Leopard Compatible
What Leopard needs that most don't have is an 867 mhz or faster G4 processor. The second thing is a Quartz Extreme support Graphics Card. Most all early G4's have the 16 MB ATI AGP Graphics Card. We have a somewhat limited selection of graphic upgrade cards these days but the little NVIDIA MX2 or MX4 will work in most machines. Of course you may need to add a bit more ram, perhaps a DVD burner, USB2 Card, Wireless etc. You can easily extend the life of your old trusty G4 for less money than buying new and run the latest operating system if you choose. You can do this yourself but if you would rather you can ship your unit here and have us install the upgrades for only a few dollars more, plus get your machine thoroughly cleaned and tested.
Do you have less than an 867 MHz G4 and want to run Leopard?
I recently added a program to our OSX Kitchen Sink called Leopard Assist. It allows you to install Leopard on some earlier G4 systems. I know that Leopard would run okay on a iMac G4 700 or 800 for example with enough ram. Click on the link to go to the web site and download it yourself. Personally I am still running Tiger and will for the immediate future.
DO NOTE THAT LEOPARD REQUIRES A G4 PROCESSOR and will not run on an iBook G3, or iMac G3 no matter what you do. If you are on one of these systems plan to run Tiger OS10.4.11, which is still currently supported by Apple and a better OS in my book for the older machines.
Here is how I install OSX on G4 Systems
There are problems with the OSX when installing on some systems. Based on my experience:
- NEW NOTE: OSX ABSOLUTELY SHOULD be installed in the FIRST PARTITION of the FIRST drive if you didn't know. I don't usually partition drives on G4's but if you must, make sure it is about 12GB's or so. In a pinch you can boot from a slave or even external Firewire Drive but for day to day operations FOLLOW THE RULES. You may get by running X from another partition but it will eventually bite you. I usually also install and run classic mode in the first partition as well.
- Turn off all energy saver settings. (Don't just disable the ext., it leaves the prefs running).
- Pull all PCI cards (leaving the stock Ultrawide card if you have one) and unhook everything from the back of the machine besides the powercord and the keyboard, mouse, and monitor, remove any zip media.
- I recommend you set the extensions to OS 9.2 only. (not on 9.2.2? upgrade your classic OS first). Make sure your firmware is updated!
- Run disk first aid or Norton (OS9 only systems) for the last time. (Do not install if you can't get a clean bill of health). Replace your drive if you need to. NEVER run Norton on a drive that has X already installed.
- I then zap the pram as described above and reset the firmware.
- I don't normally recommend pushing the CUDA switch except to recover a machine that has stopped working.
- I restarted with the C key held down and the X disk in. Hold down Command Option Delete Shift (CODS) if you are booting from an external.
- I do a CUSTOM INSTALL and deselected the 12 or so languages I don't speak and only selected the printers I use.
- DON'T have it format the drive unless you really want everything wiped off the drive!
- You really should sit through the install which is long and boring and click the install window of the installer every once in a while. The system tries to go to sleep without activity especially during the second CD. Including all updates takes several hours to complete an install with all updates.
- Should your install initially fail I have learned that reducing the ram in the unit helps. Don't ask me why but one stick in the first slot profiler reads seems to result in things working where they didn't before.
If things go well you should be able to boot in X now. SETUP TWO ACCOUNTS to start with and don't forget the passwords. THE FIRST ONE SET with Administrative access and a second make it a personal account. Use the Admin account to install new software, the other to work in. You are now ready to add the updates to get your OSX and applications up to date and these should be done logged in from the Admin account. Personally I leave the password fields blank but I am the only one who uses my machine and nobody else dare touch it.
NOTE: If your install fails for any reason, do a deep level reset as described above before reinstalling!
NOTE: If you can't get your machine to boot from the install disk, try holding down the option key at startup and then selecting the disk. If that doesn't work try CODS command-option-delete-shift keys held down at startup. Lastly try booting from an external firewire optical, using the above tips. Last resort? Try temporarily connecting the old optical drive that came originally in your G4 for the install.
NOTE: It will take longer for your system to boot and synch with your monitor when booting into X. Be patient.
NOTE: If your monitor doesn't synch after the first CD finishes (on Jaguar or Panther installs), you may need to try another monitor. I have had to swap monitors to get an install done. It worked fine with the original monitor after installing, although I had to zap the pram on some systems.
NOTE: If it fails again pull all but one stick of ram and make sure there is nothing plugged in but the keyboard mouse and monitor. If it fails to install again, format the hard drive by having it write 0's or replace the drive.
NOTE FROM RICK (a Headgap Customer): Bob - thanks for your time on the phone today. Switching from a LCD to a CRT revealed the problem. To recap: It's a BW G3, rev2 main board, boot ROM v 1.1.1f4, plenty of RAM and HD space. I booted from panther install disk 1, started a custom install to exclude all the non-essentials other than X11. Install took about 30min, never asked me to switch CDs, then gave me a 30-sec. warning before rebooting (all normal so far). Startup chime sounded, the LED on my LCD turned green, then amber. It stayed amber, thus no video. I switched to a CRT monitor, booted from install CD 1, started a custom install to exclude everything but X11. Within a few minutes, it was finished with CD 1, rebooted and was asking for CD 3. This was the step it couldn't take before (unable to successfully sync the LCD monitor). Installation from there on was a breeze.
ALWAYS RUN THE BUILT IN DISK UTILITY OR SYSTEM OPTIMIZER (Maintenance for Tiger and above) AND REPAIR PERMISSIONS BEFORE & AFTER INSTALLING UPDATES. I never do a major OS update from the built in updater and always download the COMBINED UPDATE instead. Even at that I wait a few days and visit MacFixit to see what problems folks are having. If you do this you will have less trouble. The small Application updates, security updates etc. are fine to run from the updater, but again always always run repair permissions before and after installing software. If you do kill your X then be prepared to reinstall from the installer disks. Run the Disk Utility from the Apple Menu of the installer disk and run Disk Repair first though.
The guy who wrote System Optimizer has "upgraded" the program. He now calls is SOCKS. While it has many more features it expires quickly and you will have to judge if you want to pay the shareware fee. I will continue to use System Optimizer for the foreseeable future and prefer its simplicity. SOCKS has a much more elegant interface and it has the same functionality and more.
For Tiger , Leopard & Snow Leopard I now use an Automator Script that runs the built in maintenance at your command. http://www.titanium.free.fr/download.php The 1.26 version is for Leopard but also includes the 1.18 for Tiger.
OSX is a multiple user based system unlike what you are used to on the older OSes. Notice when you install anything logged in as a user it may only be accessible by you when you log in as that user. That goes for music, pictures etc. Understanding how this multiple user system works will help you learn to use this OS. Things you want to be accessible to all should be installed by the admin level account. Before and after installing it is a good idea to repair permissions.
ENABLING THE DVD or CDRW FOR OSX:
After you install OS X, you'll need to run Patchburn to create a driver for any aftermarket optical drive.
- PatchBurn1.1en.sit is for OS 10.2 Jaguar
- PatchBurn3.1.xen.zip is for Panther and is a later version.
- PatchBurn4.0.0ax.zip is for Tiger.
- Leopard and above require no special driver.
If you have a SONNET or other aftermarket processor I recommend you visit the site and download any needed patches before starting. If you have a Realtek 10/100 card you will need to install the patch (rtsmacx(110).zip) from the Kitchen Sinks OSX folder after installing X. The stock 10/100 is supported as is USB and Firewire. You may have a special graphics card or other PCI cards that need updates. Check before starting and make sure you have the necessary drivers.
You may have no problems and many of our customers are successfully running OSX on custom boxes purchased from us and most of our office machines have Tiger installed. One thing I have learned over the years is not to be the first person to install a revision. Sites like MacFixit.com and even Apple's are full of the grief people go through. Usually if you wait a short while and revisit those sites most of the problems have solutions. I would encourage you to study up before installing.
If you are totally unable to recover your machine, we will be glad to restore your machine. Simply call our toll free number 1-877-639-1543 9-6 CST M-F for an RMA number and pay the shipping both directions and a nominal $35.00 bench charge assuming there is no mechanical damage. We do install OSX for you or you can buy from us. Call for more information.
OSX notes for Beige G3 Systems! | OSX Notes for B&W G3 Systems | New! OSX Notes for G4 Systems
OSX Tips for All Users
Since OSX is a user based system designed around BSD Unix there are a few things that most Mac users haven't had to contend with. One of which is permissions. When you install software or fonts that you intend for everyone on your system to use you need to install them from the main user which is sometimes called Admin or Adminstrator account. It was the first account you set up when you first installed your software. If you install it from one of the user accounts it will only be accessible by that account.
BEFORE AND AFTER YOU INSTALL SOFTWARE and on a regular basis run the Disk Utility (in the Utilities folder) and repair permissions. I have read a few folks who think this is un-necessary and all I can say is wait until you munge a drive and have to do a new install because you didn't take a few minutes.
Another handy program is System Optimizer X (Tiger and below). It is on the OSX Kitchen Sink in the Diagnostics folder. It runs all of the maintenance on your system on demand. It is a $12 shareware program but the demo works fine until you decide to register it and this one is well done, so try it and register your copy if you like and use it. The guy who writes this now has an "improved" program called SOCKS. I still like the simplicity of the System Optimizer though it is not Leopard (10.5) compatible.
Lose Your X Password or Need to Change It?
Boot up from the first OSX install CD by placing it in the drive and holding down the C key. When it comes up choose Reset Password from the Menu and follow the instructions.
X and Norton? NO!
I can't recommend Norton for OSX. You certainly don't want to boot into 9 and run a Disk Doctor any version. All versions will trash the drive since there are many changes to the drive format that X adds. I find that it flat kills most installs so just don't use it. I have used Tech Tool X and Disk Warrior but my best advice at this time is the use the disk repair program when booted from the original X install disk at this time. Do this periodically and it will help keep your drive healthy. Disk Warrior for X seems to work okay for drive recovery. I would NOT use it for maintenance though. Use the disk utility that comes on your install disk for regular drive maintenance.
HOW DO I BACKUP MY X INSTALL?
Carbon Copy Cloner (http://www.bombich.com/software/ccc.html) is on the X version of the Kitchen Sink. This puppy allows you to backup your OSX drive to an internally connected drive or an external Firewire drive (this will only work for booting with built in Firewire and will not work on Blue & White or the early G4 Yikes systems). This will make a bootable backup! It can also be used to recover parts or all of your X install. This solved one of the main objections I had to X and why I was not an early adopter. I still prefer the older version but the new version 3 does have nice features although it only works in Tiger or above.
If you don't have an internal second drive consider purchasing one. Having a bootable backup of your X install on a second drive is really a good idea. We will talk you through the install if you need help.
HELP! My OSX JUST SITS THERE SPINNING THE BEACHBALL AND NEVER FINISHED BOOTING? or maybe you get the Kernal Panic Screen (charcoal gray panel with printing).
ANYTIME YOU ARE HAVING TROUBLE BOOTING UNPLUG EVERYTHING FROM THE BACK OF YOUR COMPUTER except the keyboard and monitor, and of course the power plug. Fix one thing at a time. If you just installed hardware remove it.
- Try booting with the shift key held down. This is called safe mode (kind of like starting 9 with the extensions off). If it comes up okay then sometimes you can then simply reboot and things will work normally. I would load the disk utility from the Applications/Utility folder and repair permissions.
- Boot from the 1st OSX install disk by inserting it and holding the C key down after rebooting. Run Disk First Aid, then run Repair Permissions from the Disk Utility (from the menu).
- Last resort - install the OS again. Make sure you don't tell it to wipe the drive. Once you have reinstalled run the latest combined update to get your system version back up to snuff.
- You can always recover from the backup you made using carbon copy cloner (assuming you made one).
- Run Repair Permissions before and after installing software.
APPLEJACK PREINSTALLED? IF YOU DON'T HAVE APPLEJACK INSTALLED FOR OSX YOU SHOULD!
There is now a version of AppleJack for Leopard. Version 1.5 is now on the new version of the OSX Kitchen Sink. We preinstall AppleJack on all OSX systems. This little utility (Kitchen Sink OSX Diagnostics Folder or downloadable from http://applejack.sourceforge.net/) allows you to repair your disk, repair permissions, validate the system's preference files, and get rid of possibly corrupted cache files. In most cases, these operations can help get your machine back on track. The important thing is that you don't need another startup disk with you. All you need to do is restart in Single User Mode (SUM), by holding down the command and s keys at startup, and then typing applejack, or applejack auto (which will run through all the tasks automatically), or applejack auto restart (which will also restart the computer automatically at the end of the process).
The only gotcha I have found so far is on Beige G3 systems. If you had to borrow someone's monitor to install X, then your other adapted monitor probably will show you a black screen at startup. Since you simply need to type applejack auto restart, I do just that blindly and then leave the system alone. It runs through the cycles and then restarts usually getting you back up and running. There are some other warnings in the documentation so read through them thoroughly before using on your system. This is an emergency repair program and I really would not run it all the time, but it has saved me more than a few times from the hours of reinstallation.
OSX - To Journal or not to Journal
I had someone ask about Journaling. If you run a server you already probably know about this and have it on your server since it gives you a bit of extra protection and reliability. If you hadn't noticed it became an option for your Mac Extended Hard Drive starting in Panther. Next time you repair permissions using the disk utility in Tiger look at the screen and you may noticing the Journaling option button. I have a rule of thumb about Journaling. I turn it on my boot drive and off on my data drives. What it does is keep additional information as you use your hard drive. In the event of a power dip or crash when you power back up it uses this info to restore the drive. Some folks think that everything should have it turned on but it costs speed. If you use your data drive for video project work for example it slows down the drive access enough it may cause you problems. Burning large amounts of data to an optical may be slowed down enough you may have a failure is another reason you may want to turn it off. Since the drive utility makes it easy to turn on an off you may want to use this to your advantage. Turn it off when you need max performance and on the rest of the time for safety.
MAKING INCREMENTAL BACKUPS OF OSX
For my servers I use a small program called RsynchX 2.1. It has a decent and fairly uncomplicated interface. The scripting is a bit daunting but you can automate your jobs. I simply just do it each evening. You simply drag your source and destination to the graphic interface and select what you want to do from the buttons. They can even be a network drive you are connected with. It is free to use but I think they take donations. You can choose to make the drive or partition you are backing up to bootable and it even handles the older OS9 files if you have them on your system. It has proven reliable to me. It requires OSX 10.1.5 or later and I have used it personally all the way up through Tiger. I haven't tried it with Leopard but suspect it will work as well since it calls to the built in rsync that normally is only available to terminal users. It is on the OSX Kitchen Sink in the utilities folder, but can be downloaded from the link above or your favorite Mac Shareware site.
OSX Tip - Stool Softener For Your Constipated OSX System?
Personally I handle all the maintenance on my system with an Automater App called Maintenance (10.4 and later, you can find it in the Automator Actions Section). OSX is supposed to perform maintenance automatically. They improved it in Tiger so that it supposedly runs even if your computer was off or asleep when it was scheduled but it doesn't always. You certainly want to do this if you are on Panther or Jaguar, but folks on Tiger or Leopard systems may benefit from running it regularly.
- Open terminal from the utilities folder on your system.
- Type the following in the command line and then leave the computer alone until it finishes.
- sudo periodic daily weekly monthly (you may get a warning and indeed you do not want to play around with the sudo command).
- Press return and it will prompt you to type in your password before it runs.
- Once complete you can type in exit and logout and or just simply quit the Terminal program and RESTART YOUR SYSTEM.
This forces the daily, weekly and monthly maintenance to run on your system. Do this about once a month or get system optimizer off the Kitchen Sink CD (Tiger and below) which does more and run it weekly. NOTE THIS MAY TAKE SOME TIME IF YOU HAVE NEVER RAN IT, BE PATIENT. Prepare to be amazed on how much better your system runs if the maintenance hasn't been running!
Apple does have an Automator Script that will do this for you without terminal. It is called Maintenance and it is in there Automator Actions Section. The version is for both Tiger and Leopard. It works well and should be safe to use since it only runs the built in maintenance. Of course it is also on the Kitchen Sink for OSX.
Looking for a Good List of Open Source Software for Mac OSX?
One nicely done web site has a good list of open source software for Mac OSX is http://opensourcemac.org Of course a good bit of the programs appear on our Kitchen Sink for OSX but a few are a bit large and more special interest. This is simply a list of what is available but a good one. Most programs are Freeware or Shareware. I like and use NeoOffice these days in place of Microsoft Office and have recently added Seashore which gives you Photoshop type editing for free. I also like and use the program Unarchiver which adds itself at to finder and extends the types of files you can compress and uncompress in place of Stuffit or the built in. Before you go spending big bucks to add a program to your system, I would give some of the open source programs a try. We preinstall some of these programs when you have us configure your system with OSX and include many on the Kitchen Sink CD OSX version.
ALWAYS RUN A BACKUP WITH OSX! Lots of words here but worth reading I think.
If there is one thing I could convince folks of when they buy a system and plan to run OSX it would be this: Run a second drive or external drive with a cloned backup of your OSX install. We can do this for you with your purchase, and certainly help you install a second or external reliable hard drive. While I find OSX generally very reliable and hardly ever have to use our backups I am glad I do when it does happen.
OSX had been out a good while before I started using it. Why you ask? I will not run an operating system I can't make a bootable backup from. Until Carbon Copy Cloner became available running OSX was a crap shoot. After 10.2 came out it finally was a stable and reliable operating system, that I could run a backup for.
We operate our business with 6 systems and 4 servers and most of them have X on them these days. On each OSX system I either run a second drive or an attached Firewire Drive. I keep a cloned copy of the OS on that second or attached drive. If and when we have a system go down, we simply boot from the second drive by holding down the option key at startup and choosing the alternative drive. We are back up and operational in the time it takes to boot. I think all Mac OSX users should do the same. While I have ran for years on my personal systems with little or no problems (OSX Tiger is indeed stable), things do happen and being prepared keeps you from going through the grief many of you do when something does happen to your system.
You can then take the time to troubleshoot and repair the problem or simply replace the original install using Carbon Copy Cloner (or send it to us). I also use a program called RSYNCX to do any periodic updates to those backups, since it only updates the files that have changed. We all run weekly maintenance on our systems either using an old program called System Optimizer for Jaguar and Panther machines, and Maintenance 3.7 or 3.8 for Tiger and Leopard (all are on the Kitchen Sink for OSX). While OSX is supposed to take care of these chores automatically I find that you will do better if you use these programs to do this at your command.
Oh yes, don't forget to boot from your backup every once in a while to make sure it is indeed bootable and in good condition. The time to find out it isn't working is not when your main hard drive just died. You can then run the disk utility from your backup and run a full repair on your main drive.
I recommend to anyone running a Mac system that you replace your main work hard drive every 3 to 4 years (more often if your are a heavy user or run servers). They are not expensive these days, but having one fail with all your hard work, music, video, and photographs, can be. I relegate the old hard drive to back up duties then. We will preformat the drives if you ask so all you have to do is pop it in along with your old main hard drive and clone it to your new drive. I store my old backup drives in my underwear drawer (sealed airtight), just in case.
You may also want to start thinking about off site storage. Not too many years ago we had a break in and thieves stole some of our systems. Fortunately they left the drives in my underwear drawer alone so I was back up and running quickly albeit from dated data. I now store another copy of our important data off the premises in case of breakins, fire, tornadoes, or other disasters. It usually is a month or so old and we have started using "thumb" drives. With sizes from 1GB up to 8GB commonly available it isn't expensive to keep a copy of your really important stuff. While not bootable it is fairly simple to restore your data from these units. Periodically I will retreive them and run update the data. I don't trust online storage at all having been on the web longer than most of these outfits. I see them come and go with no warning far too often and no one really knows if they are secure or not.
Some people say well I have the software on DVD or CD so if something happens I will just reinstall. Well I personally don't have that kind of free time. An OSX install takes several hours when you consider all the updates that also have to be ran. Keeping a cloned backup is a much better use of your time in my book. A clone will usually finish while you are at lunch and RsyncX finished generally in the time it takes to pour yourself another cup of coffee.
There are still no active viruses or spyware for OSX
There are only rumors of possible ones. If you must send $50 to someone send it to me instead of these virus software producers. Sure the programs find viruses in your email but they are PC viruses and none effect the Mac. I personally don't worry about PC users since they are already infected anyway. There is an average of 3 new PC viruses/spyware/Trojans a day. No matter how up to date the PC virus software is, they are already infected. Not too long ago CBL.ABUSEAT.ORG reported a bot army of over 300,000 infected machines sending out alarming numbers of pump&dump and pharmaceutical spam. You can thank your PC brethren for the majority of crap in your mailbox. Do keep up the Apple updates on your system, but as I always say, run repair permissions before and after installing any software. Check http://www.securemac.com/ the next time you start worrying about it.
June 2008 a couple of Trojans have cropped up. MacUser reports an AppleScript called ASthtv05 and another cleverly called PokerGame are around. They require you download and install them before they perform their nasty bag of tricks. NONE OF THE REGULAR VIRUS SOFTWARE for Macs will stop these since it is an AppleScript you have to give permission to install and so far there are ZERO VIRUSES. Please note that the only place I have ever heard about these trojans from were in the same sentence with the antivirus software manufacturers that were also selling the fix for $50, which is a bit fishy if you ask me.
Okay so you work in a mixed office and your techs insist you run virus software on your Mac. Download the FREE ClamXav software or copy it from the Kitchen Sink for OSX Utilities folder. They regularly update the definitions so your Mac can kill the PC virus attachments. There is no better virus software in my book and the price is right.
If you call with an OSX related question please do us the courtesy of dialing on your dime. Please use the 1-405-601-5301 number. Thanks.
We can provide you options and software for your installation if you do have trouble. Give us a call!
PHONE TECH SUPPORT
We love this business and live, breath and eat Macs. We thank you in advance for using the tech support line for out of warranty or systems and equipment you have bought elsewhere. 1-405-601-5301 is our tech support line. Thanks for paying for the call. We need you to help us with this as our toll free lines expenses are rising far faster than our sales are. We are always happy to help and we pay for the calls on in warranty products. Please let us know that you are on your dime when you get a tech online, our phone system doesn't show this at the work stations. Use our email form anytime you don't need immediate response or after hours. Make sure you identify the system you are on, the OS you are using and any other pertinent hardware facts.
Back to Resale.Headgap.com | Go Directly to the Headgap's Store | Read Bob's Mac Tech Tips